Saturday 22 February 2014

another week...

I’m not sure I can write honestly that I had a better week than last but I do have some entertaining stories to tell, mostly about me and how humiliation just seems so inexplicably determined to follow me around. This is what I learnt about Korea, and myself, this week.

There is a K-Pop Tour bus – I will go on it. I think it sounds more exciting than New World Tour, Shingong Tour, New Shingong Tour, Anywhere Express Tour, Lovely Day Tour, White Tour, New Airline Express Tour or Gongbeok Tour.



Kim Yu-na, Korea’s figure skater darling, placed second to a Russian figure skater at the Sochi Olympics. Apparently, in the past this could have been a national disaster (athletes have previously apologized for “letting the country down” when finishing second or third). But this year, the wave of support for Kim Yu-na, irrespective of her result, was uplifting. Support for her efforts was palpable, particularly on social media with the phrase "Thank you,Yu-na" top spot for almost a day on Naver, South Korea's Google like equivalent. My favourite was the ending of the editorial in one of the daily newspapers: “Yu-na, we thank you and love you.” I like a country where the focus is on the athletes amazing and impressive achievements, not simply medals.

I wish I could figure skate.

When you get your hair done at the hairdressers, don’t feel intimidated by the fact that the two hairdressers sit down either side of you to spend the first thirty minutes doing their own hair. The next thirty minutes, in-between laughing at your hair, will be spent on applying their make-up.  When it finally comes to doing your hair, chair chat will be all about Kim Yu-na and they will hug you when you confirm to them that you are not Russian (because of the figure skating controversy). You will then enter their inner circle and spend two hours at the hairdressers, eating kim bap, drinking tea and engaging in conversation (that you don’t understand because it is all in Korean). They will then blow-dry your hair until it is full, high and coiffed just like a true Korean adjuma (maybe not so good if your next appointment is a photo shoot – see below).

Eating in department stores is a communal, culinary adventure. I ate next to a charming man in a very expensive looking suit and across from an elderly lady dressed only in fur and pearls. We had a lovely lunch together. He had noodle soup. She had bim bim bap. I had dumplings. We did not talk but we were happy.

That the refrain of the anthem for the Disney movie, Frozen, “Let it go. Let it go.” becomes incredibly annoying when your three year old runs around the house singing it non-stop (punctuated only by bouts of “I want an iPad.”).

Statistics to note about Frozen:
  • it is now the second most viewed foreign film of all time in Korea;
  • Korea is second only to the United States in terms of numbers having watched the film;
  • "Let it Go" has topped all of the major music charts in South Korea, including being on  top of the Melon list (Korean music list) for two weeks - the longest ever for a foreign-language song and the song has spawned countless covers (see K-Pop covers of Frozen); and
  • Frozen's soundtrack has now surpassed Les Miserables (a feat which no-one thought was ever possible as Korea loves Les Mis - check out this parody by the South Korea's Airforce from last year 2013 Youtube ROK Airforce Les Mis parody





Koreans don’t need more mobile phones, as bored man in mouse suit supposed to be selling mobile phones highlights. He had so obviously given up excitedly yelling about products in the shop and was now happy to just lounge about, using the microphone to practice his karaoke (quite possibly he was singing it “Let it Go” but I could not get close enough to confirm (irrational fear of all men in mouse suits)).


That you can drive with a witch’s hat type cone (used across Korea as a “Do not park here unless you pay man sitting in lounge chair somewhere nearby lots of money”) under the front right wheel of your car. But you can’t drive very well.


That Starbucks should have more square tables as I don’t like typing off round tables.

That I pose like a man. This week I had to get a profile shot taken. This would be my first professional photo shoot since Year 12, when I was 17 and my ridiculously good looking high school friends (them, not me) organised a group photo shoot with a professional photographer. My friends were (are) far too good looking and were easily able to stare down the camera and pose like a woman. I could not. To this day, I am still haunted by the photographer’s attempt to take a picture of me in a too tight red dress skulking (I can’t call it posing as it wasn’t) by the East Ringwood railway line. (Part of the blame lies with my Year 8 netball team, when we decided that we would be extra fast if we always caught and threw the ball with an open mouth. I have not been able to close it since when playing any ball-sport or when getting my photo taken.) 

Back to this week’s photo and I was expecting just a simple shot on a stool. How wrong of me. The good-looking 20 something Korean male photographer (just to add to the intimidation) wanted me to pose like a model, prancing around the set, contorting my face and body into various postures while he snapped away. We quickly discovered that I have only three poses. One with my arms crossed, one with my hands on my hips and one with my hands clasped at the front. All with my mouth open. He didn’t like any of these.  Question: what is more humiliating - being told you pose like a man or, when attempting to pose more “softly”, photographer trying to desperately stop himself from laughing and telling me to go back to posing like a man? 

Once the (painful) shooting was over, we then looked at the pictures on the computer to select a shot. Good-looking 20 something year old male photographer begins cropping. Then he starts typing words into Google Translator. I am not sure what Korean to English word he was searching for but when Google Translator kept throwing out words like: wide, tight, full, pretzel, big, ample, immense, broad, heavy, elephantine and whale-like, I think I got the picture. I have no need for Google Translator in my life. Then came the discussion about Photoshop. Where would I like it? What do I need from it? I said no, I would not like it. He said, in that Korean way of completely ignoring what you have just said, “Yes. I agree. You shall have it for your hair.” Sigh. 
  
Last lesson for the week: It's best to not leave the house with three children under seven if you are tired, grumpy, sick, just generally feeling not very happy as it will end in disaster. Actually, even if you are feeling the love it won’t last long when confronted with 7 year old screaming about a sore lip so can’t swim, 5 year old screaming about sore ear and needing to swim and 3 year old just generally screaming because apparently one sausage is not enough and she must have more (as well as an iPad for her birthday). I should take advice from Queen Elsa and  “Let it go.”

Sunday 9 February 2014

Snapshot of a week in Seoul

I fell over three times this week. First time: central Seoul heading down the to the underpass. I was wearing high heel boots at the time (something I have not done for about 7 years since becoming pregnant with my first and totally losing all sense of balance and style (I was not a yummy mummy)). But on this particular day, I thought I would try to wear high heels out for the day like other grown up women instead of my usual trainers. I was also off to the dentist and testing out a theory that the dentist will not find any cavities or feel the need to give you any fillings if you look hot (I was just going for respectable really. Hot would have been an (unobtainable) bonus). Theory proved wrong and I paid out another $700 for two fillings and sweet smile from the dentist, thanking me for being such a wonderful patient (given that I gave him money and for most of our meeting he had me strapped in a chair with tape over the majority of my mouth and a drill constantly on the go in the un-taped part which therefore meant I couldn’t talk, he had  never given me a chance to show him just how un-wonderful I was). Ironically, I fell just as I was thinking what a stupid idea it had been to wear heels out and that, really, I should just embrace the fact that I do love sneakers and, in celebration of that embrace, perhaps it was time for a new pair. Blue or pink? That is exactly what I was thinking as I fell. People laughed. I twisted my ankle. However, I heroically managed to make it up the stairs on the other side, onto the bus and back home where I spent the next three days with my ankle in ice. Fall number two was on the ice this morning. A man rushed to my help and didn’t laugh. I hurt my bottom. Fall number three was approximately ten minutes after fall number two. Ironically (again), I fell as I was thinking about fall number one and, once again, back to those new pair of sneakers. Couple passing me at the time laughed nervously as they delicately skated on the ice surrounding me. They were wearing sneakers. They didn’t fall.

The rest of the week went like this.

First child. Phone call from school nurse on day two of the week to collect first child as she had “high fever.” Day three, second child down. Never even made it to school as was coughing all night long with very, very high fever (much to annoyance of competitive older sister). Off to hospital, where they put a needle in her bottom, a swab up her noise and confirmed she had Influenza A for which we needed no less than eight different kinds of medication. Eight! Third child failed to get to purple school at all this week thanks to an amazing amount of snot and a cough that goes on and on and on…

After watching me cook rice (in a rice cooker no less) and shaking her head in disbelief, our Korean babysitter took over the rice cooking and then, given I failed to protest (seriously, why would you?), she became possessed, and with an adjuma like fury proceeded to take over the rest of the cooking for the entire week! She made pork Chop Chae noodles, cut up the sheets of kim (seaweed), marinated the beef for the weekend, cut up the fruit, peeled the ginger to make an amazing fresh ginger tea for the sick children, and reinforced the message several times of how to cook rice the proper Korean way. She then ironed all the shirts, ironed all the rest of the clothing, cleaned the living room and then let me leave the house to go and get my nails painted. I love her.

Middle child made it back to school on Friday to pat the horses that the amazing Parent Teacher Association arranged to be in school  celebrate the Year of the Horse. Middle child very happy (before starting to cough again). 

I walked past yet another Korean film crew (I think I am up to number nine now) shooting a scene for a movie or Korean TV drama. Have decided this is a sign that I am about to be discovered by a Korean director and will be called upon to play the part of simple yet complicated foreigner, lost in a land she does not understand but desperately wants to, with a deeply troubled past that she feels she cannot escape from, haunted by a run in with the police years ago that will only be resolved by finding the police officer that arrested her as she has just realised that she loves him passionately, as illustrated by her constant need to stop and stare melancholy into the distance as the camera takes a close up of the tears on her cheeks. (This is what I have understood from watching Korean drama).

I spent a fortune at UNIQLO (which I also love but not a much as my babysitter).

Dragged husband to Costco so he could also experience the joys of Costco in Korea. I didn’t take him to the one south side, which is the busiest Costco in the world. I took him to the second busiest one in the world. He said he is never going back.

Forgot to buy rice at Costco where there is only about three bags to choose from. Went to Homeplus to buy rice and found two aisles dedicated to just white rice. I want to know if people really can taste the difference between so many varieties. Although given the strict instructions from babysitter on how to cook rice I suspect that Koreans probably can. Have decided on approach of trying most expensive, followed by least expensive and then settling on a mid-ranged priced one.

I did 10 loads of washing.

I drank 9 coffees.

I made yoghurt and ricotta cheese for the first time. Cheese was good. Yoghurt was not.  

I shopped online for new bag. Found one I really liked (Feed bag). But didn’t buy it. Think I need a grown up black bag first but given my attempt at wearing black high heel boots was not so successful maybe I should just accept that the look of a mature, stylish, sophisticated mum of three is beyond me.

Applied for a job but didn’t get it.  

Walked past only three couples in matching sneakers and two in matching jackets but I was too cold to stop, take gloves off, get out phone and take a picture of any of them.

Almost ran over a cat. Totally its fault.

Sat in Starbucks for approximately eight hours. Not as long as usual thanks to sick children. Starbucks on a Sunday consists of me and 14 Koreans studying (ok, so they are and I am not) and, on average, each person (exclude me here) has in front of them four books, two coffees one computer and/or a Samsung Galaxy phone.

Daydreamed for approximately 4 hours about the following:
  • Writing a famous poem that is turned into music (I don’t know why);
  • Writing this post
  • Leaving my family and escaping to a desert island where waiters serve me cocktails all day and I never do another load of washing again.

Soul to Seoul: Ankle better. Bruise on bottom. Still looking for my new sneakers (and working out ways to hide the purchase from husband).