Sunday 20 October 2013

There are no kangaroos on the way to the purple school

I used to hate brussel sprouts. My mum would force them on us every week or so and they were really the most revolting mushy, squished, tasteless, wet lettuce kind of things. But now I actually don't mind them, and with a little bit of olive oil and anchovies on top I will even order them occasionally at fancy restaurants. It has taken a while though. Like around 25 years to be exact. So my question is: does it take 25 years to get used to any new thing? I don't think it is going to take me 25 years to get used to the new pair of shoes I may have just sneakily purchased on e-bay and am currently hiding from husband in the back of my closet whereas it will probably take me more than 25 years to get used to the new sweet potato flavoured mocha from Starbucks (there are somethings that you perhaps you should just never get used to).  What about moving countries? How much time does it take to adjust to new surroundings: does it take a week, a month or a year or more to become very familiar with your new world that the  previously unexpected becomes the expected. I think it is 67 days, or two months and 6 days. This is based on two experiences: 

1. Walking home from the Shepherd's Bush chain of the pub "Slug and Lettuce" in London. It took precisely two and a half months to stop jumping at the sight of the two drunks in in their dark grey trench coats lounging the door frame of the alleyway three doors down from the pub to realise they were very friendly nice men who just wanted a chat; and 

2. The walk to the purple school here in Seoul. 67 days ago we started walking to the purple school which has kindly taken on child number three and 67 days ago there were a lot of strange things on the road. But yesterday, 67 days later, as we wandered down the road nothing seemed out of the ordinary. In 67 days the unfamiliar has become familiar, the somewhat strange has become conventional and even the absolutely bizarre has become somewhat normal and expected. 

The danger in this new-found normalcy is that I will soon stop recognising what is was that I first thought to be unusual! So, in an attempt to preserve the uniqueness, I spent yesterday's walk photographing the differences that I encounter in my 15 minute walk to the purple school here in Seoul versus the 30 minute journey to the local school back home. And here are the results. 

Nature versus the urban jungle

At home we would walk past big open spaces of parkland, loads of trees, cockatoos, swooping magpies, the occasional kangaroo (I am not making this up) and four playground sets for kids. In Seoul, there are sometimes trees in the ground (although Seoul has a habit of digging up trees only to replant new ones) but usually you find them for sale in one of the four tree shops I pass (one also sells flowers but the rest really do sell trees). We also pass a fish shop, three veterinary shops (which sell poodle prams and matching booties and jackets for your freshly, freakishly groomed canine) and two small blocks that have been converted into playground for both kids and adults,  particularly utilised by the over-60 crew who gather here in their fluorescent tracksuits to rotate hips and legs, practice their hula hoop routines, conduct Michael Jackson inspired moon-walk type exercises on sleek, silver machines and feverishly bench press and stomach crunch. I am yet to see a kangaroo on our walk. 








Facilities

Starting with coffee shops (which are the bastion of civilisation), here, I pass six if I walk on the right hand side of the road and seven if I walk on the left. I would not pass one at home. Not one. Should I not want my coffee from a so called coffee shop, then I also have the choice of three CU stores, the equivalent of 7-11's, where you can buy your coffee ready made from the fridge and heat it up in the store provided microwave and rest for a while with the school boys eating their instant noodles in the paper cups on the plastic chairs provided out the front.  






Coffee shops are not the only things taking up shop space on the road. I also have the choice of:

  • five different pharmacies (two mega and three small); 
  • four bakeries (including two of the same chain);
  • two gas stations (thankfully no hanging bunnies in these ones, see earlier post);
  • one police station; 
  • two local schools as well as ten different Ivy league Hakwons (special after school for profit institutions for Korean kids because 8 to 3 is not a long enough school day here);
  • four hardware stores (including one that seems dedicated to watering cans, one that sells only brooms and one that sells only concrete);
  • two stationary shops;
  • one golf driving range;
  • five sushi shops;
  • six Korean BBQ restaurants;
  • two banks on the right and four on the left (real banks, not just machines). On special days there is a man out the front of one of them offering cash from a brown envelope to lucky passerby's;
  • three nail bars, two hairdressers and an assortment of massage parlours should I feel the urge to look beautiful before or after visiting the purple school. 

With the exception of one public school and perhaps now one pharmacy (at the time I left home, there was an ongoing dispute between the local and federal government as to whether a pharmacy was allowed to open at the local shops) the Canberra walk involved none of the above.


a truly beautiful police station

the golf net

one of the many hakwon signs

Traffic

At home, buses would occasionally dawdle past us as we ambled to school. Sometimes there might be a traffic jam of about ten cars long. Occasionally, we would have to save a hedgehog from the side of the road. And our home suburb was the proud recipient of its first traffic light last year. On our Seoul sojourn: buses thunder past us in less than 30 second intervals on the four lane local road; motorbikes are not content with using the road and believe that the footpath is also theirs for the taking; and, generally, Seoul drivers do not believe in road rules, this includes choosing whether or not to stop at one of the three traffic lights. And we pass poodles in prams. 


Never drive on a rainy day in Seoul. This is parked cars pretending to be traffic in my street one rainy morning

the foot bridge on the street, leading to one of the public schools we pass

the view from the footbridge (this was 1400 on a Monday afternoon and was unusually quiet)
a poodle in a pram

We never walked past a Porsche on our way to school nor did one pass us. I parked next to a Porsche in the local supermarket car-park (next to the purple school) the other day. Reverse parked more to the point. (Just to note that my dad gave up teaching me to drive when I managed to get the car sideways when I attempted to reverse out of our driveway one day). 



The people

Finally (and I was always going to get here) we never passed any love-match couples in Canberra (not that I have seen anyway). Here, at least a pair of matching sneakers passes us every other day. I am informed by my dad though that he did stalk a couple in Melbourne last week to get a love-match photo for me so perhaps the trend is coming to an Australian town near you!

Not my best love match photo but a shoe match nevertheless
Soul to Seoul: a shorter walk but an altogether different walk for this soul in Seoul.  

Sunday 13 October 2013

I'm sorry Oreo Boy

Once upon a time there was Oreo Boy (so named as he appeared one year, quite a few years after meting him, in Melbourne, all the way from Seattle, with no warning, to present me with a backpack full of Oreos (this was in the pre-Costco age)). He was American. He was cute. He walked around often with his top off. In a cafe by the Hoover Dam in Nevada he refused to put his top on and they refused to serve him but that didn't stop him from being topless. And then there was the topless in Disneyland incident of 2001 (him, not me). Anyway, my point is this. One night, in a tent in the Grand Canyon, Oreo Boy got really mad at me for commenting that something that was American was weird (I now can't remember what that something was). It was not weird, he pointed out, just different. Oreo Boy and I might have parted ways soon after that but his remark has stayed with me.

Is Oreo Boy right? I have often thought about the accuracy or otherwise of Oreo Boy's comment, particularly during subsequent travels to exotic places (Chadstone Shopping Centre in Melbourne not included). More than ten years on, and with the benefit of hindsight and years spent considering cultural relativism (I threw that in to sound intelligent) I would like to report that I have concluded that it is totally ok to consider something as weird. This is not to be confused with judging something to be good or bad. It is just stating that the thing in question is out of the ordinary and not part of one's frame of reference for what is considered usual. With that disclaimer in place, I would like to share some of the weirdness of Seoul. Sorry Oreo Boy.

1. The Adjuma experience. I think I will always find it weird that it is totally acceptable for an adjuma (older Korean woman) to come up to you in the street and clean your coat, fix your collar and point out the deficiencies in your parenting at the same time. I had my jacket patiently brushed down by an adjuma the other night as I was on the escalators heading to the tube station (I had hastily pulled it out of the back of the wardrobe two minutes before running out the door and it has not been worn since last winter). She thought nothing of it, despite the fact the jacket was on me at the time, and even found it bemusing that I appeared so startled (afraid might be the more accurate verb in this instance).  

2.  The size of towels. Apparently big towels (not even big, just usual sized towels) are not needed in Korea. It is not because Koreans are a race of short people. I have seen some rather tall Koreans, including some rather fit, well proportioned, groomed and dressed Korean males (I should stop now but let's just say that I am completely on board with the K-Pop fascination).  At first, I thought this phenomenon was just limited to the naked spa bath experience (just to add further humiliation to what is already humiliating (see earlier blog post on public nudity) but, as we discovered on our driving trip around Korea in July, small towels are everywhere. I am currently trying to uncover the link between small towels, small tubs of yoghurt (my children each eat two in one sitting) and small sized loaves of bread (around 10 slices in each loaf is all that you will find) that are sold here. Any ideas?


modelling small sized towels

3. Gas stations not only hand out free water when you fill up but sometimes they also have bunnies attached to the hose which somewhat distressingly makes me think that you are literally hanging a bunny when you let the hose go (hoses go up to the roof here and not back into the pump). Does the free water make up for the fact that you leave with a bunny dangling in the sky as you nonchalantly drive off? No. It does not. 


hanging the bunny at the gas station

4. Fried chicken delivery. You can get it anywhere, anytime. You can be in the middle of a park, halfway up a mountain, at the gates of a temple and the fried chicken motorbike man will find you. There is no place he will not go in his quest to deliver you a bucket of deep fried chicken!

5. Gift packs of Spam. I have nothing else to say on this. 
gift pack of spam

6. Car park spaces just for the ladies. Not just for the pregnant or the pram carrying lady but for all ladies. To begin with, I thought this meant that the car park spaces would be wider than usual to cope with the alleged theory that women drivers are worse than men (I say alleged but I will confess that I fall into the category of women who cannot reverse but my navigation skills far outweigh mu husband's) but I now think it is the opposite. The lady only car park spaces have been made smaller than normal here in Korea in recognition of usually smaller ladies usually driving smaller cars. This does not help me and my not so good reverse parking abilities. As a result, I may have taken the ladies only option a bit too far the other day when I took up almost two car park spaces as I disastrously attempted to reverse park. I am woman. Hear me roar. 


ladies only car park space

7. Finally (for now and note that I am not going into love match as I consider that a category all of its own) weirdness number 7 relates to rubbish or the lack thereof. We are living in a city of around 20 million. And there are relatively few rubbish bin opportunities to be found. But that does not mean there is no cleanliness. In fact, it is the complete opposite. This city is ridiculously clean. When do you find a rubbish bin there are usually three in a row so you will of course obliging deposit rubbish according it its type. You do the same for your home rubbish (which must also go into specially marked bags all colour coded). People do this. No questions asked and no complaints heard. 


rubbish disposal bin

Soul to Seoul: my soul might be a little weirded out in Seoul but I think I like it.